It was an explosion just waiting for that spark to set it off. Within days of my visit it was due to blast off like a massive firework display of colour and light. Exbury Gardens in the New Forest was due to ignite with tens of thousands of leaf and flower buds just waiting for the right moment to burst open and enthral and astonish anyone in the vicinity. The fact that I missed the best on this visit is a good enough reason to return in a few days and walk it all over again.
Nobody who lives within easy reach visits there just the once; Exbury Gardens is too beautiful to ignore and I never knew the dog could go along to. My parents took me as a child and in turn my children were taken, it will not be too many years before their children are also old enough to enjoy the stunning vision that is Exbury.
One mistake was made, only half a day was set aside for my visit and it was nowhere near long enough. Mr Eddy’s Restaurant and Tea Room is on the edge of the car park and ideal for a hot beverage to fortify visitors prior to their expeditions, on past the plant sales area – you know they are going to be quality plants – and to the entrance gate.
Once through the gate a large golf style buggy awaits for those not fit enough to walk the myriad of trails and the Head Gardener’s Board tells of ongoing work and what plants to watch out for. The pathways vary from easily accessible to not quite so easy and so wheelchair routes, and those inaccessible to them, are clearly signposted. In fact all the routes and what lies at the end of them are all clearly signposted and maps are available at the entrance. These maps are very handy and should be looked at regular points; that way you do not have to traipse half way back across the gardens because you missed a bit that you had wanted to see. (Not that I did that of course).
The slightly arched Gilbury Bridge takes visitors over to the warm colours of the Heather Gardens on the left and Witcher’s Wood on the right. Behind the heathers is the Five Arrows art gallery and exhibition space and if open it is always worth a visit. Alongside of the gallery a path leads to the tranquillity of the Herbaceous and Grasses Garden. Here the muted colours of the grasses are interrupted by the shock of colour from odd outbreaks of flower heads while in the corner a stunning sculpture stands serene.
As you round the hedgerow and some of the service buildings the front of Exbury House suddenly comes into view with its large round driveway. Images of Eisenhower and Churchill along with their Chief’s of Staff pulling up in Jeeps and chauffeur driven cars and stepping through that front door to discuss how best to end the war came to mind; this was Allied headquarters during the conflict.
Behind the house Home Wood takes you past the Lionel de Rothschild Memorial, the Wiggly tree and Mrs Lionel’s Seat and then on through Camellia Walk. Pale blues, stunning reds and delicate petals line the pathway and lead on down to the Japanese bridge and to a favourite spot.
Despite the bursting forth of stunning spring flowers the favourite time for many at Exbury is autumn. Pick any bench around Top Pond or Azalea Bowl at that time of year and the golds, ambers, browns and reds take on the form of an artist’s canvas with paints squeezed onto nature’s palette. It is a stunning display as bold as any spring collection of flowers.
Signs around this area point to the riverside walk and it is easy to forget that the whole gardens sit on the banks of the Beaulieu River. On the opposite side of Home Wood from the house seats lay in wait for those who want to just rest awhile and take in the view across Daffodil Meadow and down to the river. Even after the field of yellow has long gone the view is still inspirational.
Tennis Court Tea Garden is a fine and sunny spot to stop and take a little refreshment and such is the relaxation felt that visitors are soon in conversation with others on adjacent tables. Exit through the gate into Lovers Lane, canopied by blue cloudless skies and lined with rhododendrons, it is a lovely area just to take your time stroll through; the pathway may be hard but it is littered with the bright petals of fallen flowers.
Children with thin sticks collect the fallen petals and thread them down the twig to produce multi coloured wands that are as magic to see as anything Harry Potter can produce with his wizard’s wand.
Up through the middle of Witcher’s Wood, where hidden in one corner are the Dog’s Graves. A neat row of headstones lament the loss of Ringo, Jip and Fudge among others and speak of their friendship and the love felt for them.
I had almost forgotten the History Tree where its many rings recall the dates in history that it had lived through. A yellow arrow carries the legend that the cedar tree was planted in the glade by William Mitford in 1728, 28 years later Mozart was born. In 1815 the Battle of Waterloo took place and in 1856 it was the Charge of the Light Brigade. Victoria’s Reign began in 1837 and her death is marked in 1901 and many other dates and events are marked to coincide with the cedar’s growth rings.
Back across Gilbury Bridge and Hydrangea Walk borders Yard Wood and takes in the Boardwalk and Jubilee Pond along with many other delights. With time running out the stunning Rock Garden, American Garden, Azalea Drive and wildlife ponds were all put on hold. Worst of all the Steam Railway would also have to wait till another day with its bright blue engine pulling visitors along its narrow track. As if the railway was not a good enough reason to return come July through to September a Maize Maze will puzzle and confuse those willing to find its centre and then find their way out again.
Down in Home Wood there is a new seat that surrounds a tree. A gift from all at Exbury and it is dedicated to Mr Eddy, Edmund de Rothschild, to celebrate his 90th birthday back in 2006. Around it an inscription reads, ‘It was his good fortune to inherit these gardens – it was their good fortune to inherit him.’ I firmly believe it was all our good fortunes that we are able to take time out to visit such wonderful gardens time and time again. We have all inherited something truly beautiful; nature at her finest but helped along a little by dedicated people who amazingly improve on what is given to us naturally.
© David Rose-Massom April 09